Bhutan woman tells of transition from monarchy to democracy

(Photo submitted) Adorned in their Bhutanese national dress and special scarves, Tashi Ongmo, left, and her family, which includes father Dr. Gado Tshering, brother Thinley Jamtsho Tshering, mother Tashi Choden and older sister Chimi Ongmo, were photographed on a recent visit to the temple in Bhutan. Ongmo's father is sporting a red scarf along with his "gho," which designates his high position in the government. It is not mandatory for children under the age of 13 to wear the national dress, as displayed by her brother.

She may miss the mountains and her national dress of Bhutan, but Tashi Ongmo, a 20-year-old visitor at the Dr. Rick and Barb Wilkerson home in rural Spencer, is still a relatively happy person.

But Ongmo should be happy. Like the approximately 700,000 other residents of Bhutan, she believes in the pursuit of Gross National Happiness, the country's overarching political philosophy which seeks to balance material progress with spiritual well-being.

The landlocked nation in South Asia is located at the eastern end of the Himalaya Mountains and is bordered to the north by the Tibet Autonomous Region of the People's Republic of China and to the south, east and west by India. The once-isolated nation claims direct international flights, Internet, mobile phone networks and cable television as recent developments.

Following centuries of direct monarchic rule, Bhutan also made its first moves to become democratic last year, with residents holding their first general election on March 24.

"It was a big transition for the country and its people that was well planned beforehand by the king," Ongmo reflected. "Although the people wanted the king to remain in power and rule the country like before, the king determined to bring this transition as an opportunity for the people to have the power and a voice in making decisions and developing the nation."

While she noted there were family conflicts within some Bhutanese families, Ongmo reported no violence or protests occurred in Bhutan during the leadership change. The election pitted candidates from the Druk Phuensum Tshogpa (DPT) party, which won the election, against the opposing People's Democratic Party (PDP).

"When a mock election was held, where different colors represented different parties, most of the votes went to the yellow party, because it was the color of the scarf that the king wore. So, people voted according to their favorites or what they were already familiar with. Therefore," Ongmo said, "the people still have a lot more to learn and understand about voting for what would bring about a good change in the country."

Bhutan, meanwhile, crowned its first king to lead the country since its transformation to democracy last month. Jigme Khesar Wangchuck's solemn coronation ceremony, which was laced with sacred Buddhist rituals, took place at the precise hour appointed by astrologers. It marked the last step in a process that saw his 52-year-old father, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, reform the isolated Himalayan nation from an absolute monarchy to a democracy. The 28-year-old heir had served as acting king since his father announced his retirement in December 2006.

Because she was visiting family friends in Michigan, New York and Tennessee while applying to U.S. colleges, Ongmo did not vote in her country's first general election. While she said "it was really exciting being here during the election and seeing Obama," she explained her family in Bhutan "had to be on the sideline" and "couldn't really vote for any party" because of her father's position. Dr. Gado Tshering has held his country's Secretary, Ministry of Health title since 2006. His fields of expertise include human resource and organizational development, diagnoses and treatment, and the prevention and control of epidemics, especially tuberculosis.

(Photo by Kris Todd) Tashi Ongmo, 20, is visiting the Dr. Rick and Barb Wilkerson family of rural Spencer. [Order this photo]

"During my grandparents' time, my grandma passed away because of tuberculosis," the 20-year-old revealed. "But they didn't really know what it was at that time, so I think it (tuberculosis) is a problem there (in Bhutan)."

The freshman at Knox College also admitted she'd wanted to pursue a collegiate career in the United States. While Ongmo began her studies at the private liberal arts college in Galesburg, Ill. with architecture as her focus, she has since become an undecided major and is opting to explore the possibilities available to her here.

While her collegiate peers brought "security blankets" to their home away from home, the Bhutanese Ongmo revealed she finds peace and solace at college while praying before her painting of the Buddhist goddess, White Tara, also known for compassion, long life, healing and serenity.

Noting this week's below-zero wind chills in Iowa, Ongmo explained Bhutan has four seasons, with snow that lasts about three weeks in the winter. Her country's climate does not get "as extreme" in its coldness or heat, she added.

Another difference between the two nations is that residents of Bhutan wear a national dress, known as a "gho" for men and a "kira" for women, to school, in government offices, on formal occasions and to religious ceremonies.

"We also eat rice for every meal with a side dish, like curry," Ongmo said.

Of Bhutan's philosophy of Gross National Happiness, which scholars and diplomats studied firsthand recently to see if it were applicable in their 25 countries, Ongmo said, "Financially, I think we have a good economy. In our country, we measure the gross domestic product by the development of the country and how well people are doing, which is all based on how happy and content everyone is."

Of the U.S.'s measure of gross domestic product or gross domestic income, she added, "A lot (here) has to do with materialistic ideas and money."

Ongmo, who is currently on a long trimester break from college, arrived at the Wilkersons on Nov. 24. Her family, which lives in the capital city of Thimphu, first became acquainted with the Clay County orthopedic surgeon's family 13 years ago, and reacquainted with them this past summer when they returned to Bhutan. While Ongmo traveled with the Wilkersons to Canada for Thanksgiving, her plans are to fly to Detroit, Mich. on Friday, to spend Christmas with Dr. Richard and Julie Scott, another host family who first trekked to Bhutan 15 years ago.